The
Yosemite Decimal System
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The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) consists
of five general classes, the fifth being subdivided with a decimal notation,
but it is generally accepted that some ratings are too high or too low
because people want to brag or because the standards among climbers has
changed over time, and many people have editorial comments about the YDS.
The argument that exposure has nothing to do with the class of the climb
is not supported by the history of YDS. Exposure was implied in the definition
of 4th and 5th class by the use of a rope. Starting in the 5th edition
of Freedom, exposure was included in the class descriptions, probably
because of the wide variety of techniques being used on the same climbs.
In the 6th edition of Freedom, the wording has changed again. class 1 (used for some peaks that do NOT have trails) class 2 class 3 class 4 class 5 "The experienced climber, having accomplished or attempted free climbs of varying degrees of difficulty in the YDS class 5 range, gains an understanding of the level of difficulty involved. To the beginner, however, these ratings are simply a set of numbers, understandably, easy if rated 5.0 and impossible if rated 5.13. To provide a slightly better understanding within the class for the beginner the following tongue-in-cheek description is provided: 5.0 to 5.4 5.5 to 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13 It can sometimes be helpful to know who rated the climb; since ratings are give by humans and not by computers, human frailties can be interjected into the system. For example, some climbers will intentionally underrate climbs so that those who follow later will be impressed. Fortunately most climbers do attempt to give accurate ratings, and by the time a route is in a guide book, enough people have made the climb to show the rating as a consensus of opinion. Also remember that ratings are given for ideal conditions; unfavorable conditions can cause considerable change in a climb's difficulty. The increasing technical difficulty of Class 5 climbs led to the same "relative grading" problem that had caused the initial development of the system, so that class was subdivided in the late 1950s. It was developed by Don Wilson, Royal Robbins, and Chuck Wilts in 1956. Initially it was based on ten climbs in Tahquitz, California, and ran from "The Trough" at 5.0, a relatively modest technical climb, to "The Open Book" at 5.9, considered at the time the most difficult unaided climb humanly possible. However, advances in techniques and equipment have since led to harder climbs being completed. The first such climb was given the rating 5.10; the second the rating 5.11. It was later determined that the 5.11 climb was much harder than 5.10, leaving many climbs of varying difficulty bunched up at 5.10. To solve this, the scale has been further subdivided above the 5.9 mark with a-d suffixes. It is now an open-ended scale, with 5.15a the hardest climb having been completed (as of October 2003). In addition, the popularity of bouldering (very short unroped extremely hard climbs) introduced the current standard "V" scale, which currently ranges from V0-V15. Boulder problems tend to be short and powerful, often requiring different techniques than roped climbing, and a separate rating system makes sense. Danger ratings: However, all the various rating systems do not describe the danger level faced by the leader should the leader fall (which is one reason why the YDS should not be used in climbing gyms). Various rating systems were introduced to include some description of the potential falls. These ratings which describe danger and psychological difficulty are not nearly as refined as the ones describing physical difficulty. Currently, the most widely used is the R, R/X, and X ratings. These crudely describe the danger level. R runout, where a fall would likely result in serious injury These ratings do not describe other hazards such as loose rock, which often can only be negotiated safely with a decade of mountaineering experience, and which regularly kill even the best climbers in the world. |
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