Multi-sport Weekends in Southern California.
 
March: Climbing and Snowboarding
 
Living in Southern California they are a multitude of options for someone if they want to get outside. So many, if fact, that I have decided not to start or participate in additional sports of activities in the foreseeable future. I already spend my weekends climbing, kayaking, hiking, snowboarding, trail running and biking and on weekdays I might run, climb at the gym or bike to work. It is hard enough fitting all of those into my schedule or allotting enough time for each so that I get better or experience new routes, places or trails. I have come up with one solution: the multi-sport weekend. A nice long bike ride Saturday morning – lunch – a nap- a kayak foray into Back Bay for the entire afternoon. Get up early Sunday and go climbing until 4:00 or 5:00. While this doesn’t leave me with a great deal of time for “rest” during the weekend, I’m fine with that. I would MUCH rather be outside going and doing then sitting around in my whity-tighties, eating cereal and watching cartoons.

My buddy, Matt Brauning, and I had this communal calendar where we planned our weekend outdoor activities out almost until the end of the summer. This past weekend was a classic multi-sport road trip that started out like all good road trips do: We were up too late Friday night drinking and dancing with some friends at a club. There was late night Mexican food after we got back to Brauning’s place and our original departure time of 6:00am was shot to hell. I woke Brauning up (and the young lady next to him) and we hit the road at 8:20am. An hour and a half later we were in Joshua Tree National Monument looking for an old mine off of some back road. After spending 45 minutes searching, we gave it up and went to look for a camping/parking space at the Hidden Valley Campground. We found an empty space next to a group from the Seattle area who had been in the park climbing for two months. They were amazed with Brauning’s truck. It is a big, gas guzzling, non-earth friendly bastard and the only reason he was able to squeeze into the tiny space was because his Chevy has Quadra-Stear four wheel steering. By their reaction, you would have though we were showing those ol’ boys fire or women for the first time.

 
After setting up camp and sorting gear, we headed off for what should have been an easy 15-minute stroll into Hidden Valley to a wall near the entrance. Two hours and three miles later we found our wall. The trail into Hidden Valley is unmistakable and the loop trail within the valley that is only a mile around and on any given weekend one might spot very old, very plump German tourists walking the loop in the sandaled and socked feet. I had never been in the area before and Brauning was navigating. Yes, I am blaming the whole episode on him. While it might be true that I had the map or the valley as well, the whole affair is still somehow his fault… Anyway, we (mostly Brauning) got turned around and we spent an hour hopping from boulder to boulder until we had crossed out of the valley and had to walk part of its perimeter. If I have ever told you the story of my trip into the Wind River Range, you know how much I loathe boulders, especially when I have to hop from one to the other with a pack on. Man, it sucked.
 

Shots of both of us befor getting on the routes.

Brauning got a little boo-boo on his hands that I got blamed for. He should have worn tape gloves...

We finally found our way back to the trailhead and after maybe a five minute walk from there, we found the crag that had eluded us. There is a trip to the Colorado Front Range coming up this summer (Flood’s Front Range Climbing, Hiking and Rafting Jubilee) and Brauning needs some practice on setting trad gear. He is a strong climber, but he hasn’t really placed that much gear. We both figured that this would be a good trip for him to work on placing cams, nuts and anchors. I led the first route, sat up an anchor at the top and he followed me up. We walked off the top and he geared up to lead the second route. Brauning moved quickly on the first 1/3 route, but slowed to a crawl once he got into a vertical crack. He took his time and placed gear that he felt would take the pressure of a fall. Meanwhile the sun was getting low in the sky and it gets real cold in the desert at night. I was on belay, talking to him and shivering for about 45 minutes. He set up an anchor after topping out, then reset it a couple of times before I was put on-rope. As I followed up the route, I cleaned the gear from the crack and looked closely at each of his placements. They all were set good, but I was especially impressed on the bombproof stopper placements. They were all REALLY solid and each would have withstood a big fall. When I got on top of the route I told him how impressed I was. I said in a really loud enthusiastic voice “Dude! Your nuts looked great! They were set soooo sweet!!” After saying this, I look down to see a hiker who was looking up at me with a sad and confused look. Then it hit me… he, his wife and family thought I was discussing a particular part of Brauning’s anatomy. God only knows what else they were thinking.
 

It was getting late, so we packed our gear up and went looking for a cave/natural rock slide near the valley entrance called “The Cookie Oven/Cavern of Doom.” We boulder hopped some more (yeah!!) and looked in every nook and corner without finding the entrance. (If anyone reading this knows where the thing is, please drop me a line.)

Update: A guy named Brian Watamura read this tale and went looking for the Cookie Oven for me. He had been there before and thought he could find the entrance. Click here to see what he found.

We gave up just before the light completely faded and hiked back to the campground to make supper. As we were having a combination hot chocolate/instant coffee while cooking, a full moon rose over one of the rock formations. It was so bright that we turned off our headlamps and just did everything by moonlight. The shadows of the rock formations that night were enthralling, almost otherworldly. The sky was cloudless and there were stars spread from horizon to horizon. I wished that I had brought my star guide and a pair of good binoculars to see the moon closer

Brauning needs 10-12 hours of sleep every night so that he can go into the office, talk on the phone and surf the net fully rested. His activities the night before had robbed him of that quality coma like state, so he started drifting off to sleep while cooking and in the middle of conversation around 8:00 that night. We met a couple of Marines on weekend leave who were in Joshua Tree climbing and talked to them for an hour or so after supper. Brauning dozed off during the conversation with them as well. We turned in before 10:00. Brauning’s eco-destroyer truck has a camper shell and thickly padded sleeping platform in it. Screw a tent; sleeping on that thing is like sleeping on your bed at home. It only got down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit that night, so we were warm and comfy in our bags under the topper and were lulled to sleep that night with the tink-ping sound of someone setting a late night clandestine bolt somewhere in the valley. We got up at 5:30 the next morning, crawled out of the back and into the front seats. We hit the road right away and had a breakfast of icing covered strawberry Pop Tarts and fruit in the cab of the truck on the way to Big Bear.

 

Brauning's road trip machine

 
We only got lost on the road there once and pulled into the parking lot at the base of Snow Summit Ski Area at 8:10. We were on the snow by 8:30 and started hitting it hard right away. I dislocated my collarbone on our last trip, but it didn’t bug me at all either climbing or on the slopes. Brauning bombed down the runs and I spent a little time making sweet carving turns. We both really over dressed and started shedding cloths right away. It didn’t matter, the temperature rose throughout the day and by noon we both looked like ski movie rejects: Big pants, tight shirts, an odd vest, mittens and goggles. Take note, this is not how one dresses on the slopes it one wants to attract snow-bunnies. Anyway, we carried our goofy asses up and down the slopes for four hours with out a real break.

Just before lunch, Brauning made friends with an old guy working one of the lifts and he hooked us up with runs where there were absolutely no lift lines. Brauning had just bought a new board and bindings and he loved them, bombing down every empty run that we hopped on. I was about 30 yards behind him on a steep clumpy emptyhill when he went down hard. On our last trip together, Brauning had a horrendous face plant on at jump that blacked his eye. This one wasn’t quite as bad, but he saw stars for a few minutes. We pulled to the side of the run while he collected his thoughts and snacked a bit. I only screwed up once, but it was a good one: coming into on of the lift line areas, I came in too fast and didn’t see a skier standing there. I tried to stop, but it was too late… I nailed her right in the boots with my board edge and she flew over me and landed square on her butt. I immediately checked to see if she was OK and apologized again and again for my mistake. She turned out to be fine and understood that it was an accident, so I didn’t get a cussing.

Snacking is the key to spending quality time on the slopes. Screw going to the truck or the lodge for lunch. Throw a few Power Bars, some jerky, a couple of bagels, craisons, little packets of cheese and cookies into your hydration pack and just keep going. There is plenty of time for eating on the lifts. I came up with a concoction of a Clif Bar topped with strawberry Gu on one lift ride that day that REALLY hit the spot!

After spending some quality time on the empty runs and lifts, we headed to the other side of the mountain and hit the terrain park. Man, we had a ball. We hit small jumps, shelves, features, big jumps and dropped into the half pipe and played. I caught some great air on a couple of the big jumps and Brauning really hammered the half pipe and a high bank just as you come out of the pipe. The only real drawback to that side of the mountain was the crowds. The lift lines weren’t too bad, but there were idiots sitting in the middle of the runs, on the face and in the landing area of jumps and at the edge of steep sections of the runs. It was sort of an obstacle course getting to the lifts. We ran the terrain park until we were just beat and headed to the truck around 4:15. We loaded up pretty quickly and started back to Orange County. There were some Pop Tarts left from that morning’s breakfast and Brauning had a couple packages of tuna salad & crackers. My buddy Mark Flood used to live on tuna and Pop Tarts and at the time we all thought that there couldn’t be anything nastier, but having now tried the combination I can see why it appealed to him: It was downright tasty! Cheers Flood!

It should only take an hour and a half to drive from my place to Big Bear, but the trip home that night was a bit longer… by 3 more hours. Traffic sucked and there were two rollover wrecks on the mountain road. We didn’t roll into Brauning’s garage until almost 9:00 that night. The traffic didn’t take away from the trip though. I really did have a GREAT time and the only thing that I would change for next multi-sport trip is to board the first day and climb on the second: Drive into Big Bear early Saturday for boarding, havea big hot meal in town before driving to Joshua Tree and camping out, climb hard all day in the park and then making the drive home Sunday night on a very uncluttered 6-lane highway.


 
Second Attempt at a Multi –Sport Weekend

Snowboarding the first day and Climbing the second

By: Matt Talley


 
Another free weekend loomed. What to do? Brauning and I had a plan: another multi-sport mini road trip. We were going to try and correct the problems of our last attempt and make this one a perfect weekend of balls-out, sweating, screaming fun. We planned to go to bed early, get an early start, ride all day at Big Bear Mountain, drive to Joshua tree, get up early, climb HARD all day and make it home by 6:00pm on Sunday. That was the plan anyway.

Adherence to that plan started going south almost as soon as we made it. Brauning had a small “friends-only” get together at his place to finish off the keg of beer left from one hell of a St. Patty’s Day party the Wednesday before. The gathering soon ballooned into confusion with strangers drinking all the liquor, an obnoxious ex-girlfriend or two, carpet stains, too much beer and high drama involving a particular lady that was infatuated with the host. I crashed around 3:30am and Brauning went to sleep about 4:00. I was up at 6:00 the next morning and had to practically winch Brauning out of bed. He staggered/lumbered to the truck, threw me the keys and fell into the passenger side seat. We rode Snow Summit Resort two weeks before and wanted to hit the terrain park at Big Bear Resort this time. We parked at the base of Snow Summit and planned to take the bus over to the other resort, but when we saw the snow; neither of us seemed to remember the bus ride plan. We just hit the lifts. The snow was a little hard and icy that morning, but by 11:00 it had softened up considerably. Brauning and I spent all morning hitting jumps, banks and bumps, doing fairly well on them ( not landing on our asses too much). At the end of one really good run stood a massive twelve-foot high launch ramp that I hit once, timidly, and got about two feet of good air. Brauning and I decided to hit the thing the next time down like men, big mistake! Brauning hit the incline going REALLY fast and shot strait up and out, landing on his belly and face from about five feet up. I didn’t see him wipe out and I hit the jump hauling ass. As I crested the lip, there laid Brauning in my landing area/impact zone. If I had been a cartoon character I would have held up a little “Help!” sign right before twisting in the air to avoid the sad pile of flesh in my way. I somehow managed a wonderfully executed face plant with a ¼ twist on top of the jump that left me seeing all the pretty birdies flying around my head and a taste of blood in my mouth. We both limped down to the lodge and for a short rest and a hot meal.

 

Matt Talley after a day of boarding.

After lunch, we went over to the other side of the mountain and got on a couple of SWEET downhill runs that were just all sorts of fun. My favorite downhill run of the day was a black diamond that we just carved all the way down, while going good and fast. The terrain park was calling us and we headed over again after about an hour of downhill thrills. I tried a jump with a barrel obstacle (hit my ass), got on my first box (nailed it!) and I got air off the lip of the half-pipe. On our second run down the pipe, Brauning landed funny after a fall and hyper-extended his elbow. He turned out to be alright, but his arm hurt for the rest of the weekend.
 

Toward the end of the day I somehow got way ahead of Brauning on a run and waited on the lip of a drop-off for him to catch up. If a person can limp in snowboard bindings while sliding down the mountain, he was doing it as he edged up to where I was waiting. When I asked if he had made a particular jump, he slowly shook his head “no” and said “We need to go down.” I could tell that he was hurting, but I just didn’t know where. At the bottom of the run, we unstrapped and headed for the lodge and to the bathroom. Apparently, Brauning had landed awkwardly after a jump right on his “beans and frank”, the “frank” taking the brunt of it. He went into the bathroom stall just to make sure that everything was still in working order. Matt B. had met a girl the week before that he had absolutely fallen in love with and I think he was scared that his “equipment” had been irrevocably damaged, which would have been hard to explain to a new girlfriend… Well, that incident was the end of our boarding day, so we packed up and headed to Joshua Tree.

 
We found a parking site in Hidden Valley Campground pretty quick and started our supper right away. There was a girl in the group that was sharing our site who took an immediate liking to us both, but as the evening wore on and I backed away from the fire, she showed interest in Brauning. As luck would have it, the atmosphere that night was incredibly romantic: Medium campfire, small circle of climbers, wine bottles being passed around, a guitar and harmonica playing softly… One might think “Yeah! A climber chick who built her own sleeping platform in her truck and who had been in the park for two weeks of strait climbing and in just the right mood. I’m all in!” But, one would only think that if one hadn’t seen this girl. She was a serious swamp-donkey: so wrong in so many different ways! Brauning was nice to her though and I couldn’t have been more proud of him when decided to call it an early night and sleep alone, without her loving, callused, manly embrace to keep him warm through the cold night.

The stars that night were gorgeous and my last sight before sinking off to sleep was the belt of Orion shining down from the night sky. The next morning, I awoke in pain and I just laid there for an hour, not wanting to move and not wanting to be awake anymore. I was so sore and stiff from the falls I took boarding. I woke Brauning up just before I crawled out of the camper and he laid there and moaned while I made breakfast. There was some serious thought given to sitting in camp all day and napping in the shade. We pressed on, got our gear together and started climbing around 9:00. We both felt REAL bad, so I decided to give an easy little 5.7 a go to warm up and get our blood flowing. Well, that route WAS NOT a 5.7! I was up twenty-five feet on a slab with no place to put protection in and nowhere to hold onto, no safe way to get down and no real good way to go up. I stood on a two-inch by half inch pencil ledge for a minute or two, weighed my options, screwed my head on strait, pulled up my balls and went for it. The 5.10 move was CRAZY scary on a featureless slab and up another eight feet of more featureless slab to a jug hold and into a crack. I made the moves and set a bomber piece in the crack. There is nothing like setting your first real piece thirty-five feet off the ground to make one hyper-aware of all the stupid shit that one has done in the last six months. Brauning cleaned the route and commented on the mad scary slab moves. We walked off the top of the route and set up a 5.11b top rope route in the shade. I tried the route first (3 times) and couldn’t get past a dyno fifteen-feet up. Brauning tied in and sent the dyno and the first ¾ of the route before resting on rope. It was an impressive show. He topped out and I gave the route one more go. I nailed the dyno and got ½ way up before losing the hand/foot sequence, getting tired and finishing the route like a whipped puppy. We had spectators the whole time we were both on route. Apparently, the dyno looked very impressive from the ground.

 

We saw this car in the parking lot near Echo Rock in J-Tree and just had to have a picture.

 
That was it for us. Two routes and we were done. Brauning’s arm and back were killing him and my back was twisted into knots. We packed all the gear and headed to Ryan Mountain for a short, three mile, hike and to eat our lunch overlooking the whole valley. Brauning got us a little lost, but we finally found the right trail and summited the small peak with water to spare and ate lunch in the shade of a stunted prickly bush. Feeling a little refreshed and spry after lunch we ran the trail back down the mountain, hopped in the truck and headed home -- not the smartest thing we could have done... At mid-point on the way back to Orange County, we got out of the truck for a bathroom break and both of us almost fell on our faces from stiffness and pain. Brauning looked like the walking dead, shuffling from and to the truck. By the time we got back to his place we were both really sore all over. A friend of ours was at Brauning’s house cooking supper for everyone and I tried to help a little with the meal prep after we got there, but she gave me a seat and ordered me to “sit.” In addition to being sore, Matt B. was coming down with a cold and his roommate had to help him out of the tub just before we ate. He spent the entire meal with his eyes partially closed, sitting in the same place, barely eating and not saying a word.

Lesson learned from this trip: The trip order needs to be climbing on Saturday and boarding on Sunday. The key is: stay in town après boarding, have a beer and a big dinner while the traffic clears going down the mountain. This way we could be home by 10:30 or 11:00, still a decent hour and not have to fight the homebound weekend traffic.

 

Matt and Matt on the summit of Ryan's Mountian.